About climbing chalk

About Climbing Chalk

Climbing is a casual sport that you can start with just two pieces of gear: climbing shoes and chalk. In this article, we would like to provide an explanation about the white powder chalk you apply to your hands when climbing.

What is the role of climbing chalk?

Climbing chalk is used to keep your hands from slipping, but in fact, the chalk itself has no anti-slip effect. So, how does it provide an anti-slip effect? Climbing chalk is primarily made of "magnesium carbonate." This "magnesium carbonate" has excellent water-absorbent properties. In other words, its anti-slip effect works by having the "magnesium carbonate" absorb the hand sweat that causes you to slip.

Types of Chalk

There are four main types of chalk, each with its own characteristics.

・Liquid Type
This is magnesium carbonate dissolved in alcohol to create a liquid. Since it is liquid, the chalk gets into the creases of your fingers, and because it is highly volatile, it does not scatter much once it dries. This chalk is recommended for people who sweat a lot. However, because it contains alcohol, it can cause chapped hands for those with sensitive or dry skin.

Recently, it has increasingly been used as a base coat; it is also effective to apply powder chalk on top of liquid chalk before it has fully dried.

【Product Examples】

【Frictionlabs】 Secret Stuff

【PD9】Liquid Climbing Chalk

【Tokyo Powder】HIGH GARAGE

・Powder Type

This is powdered chalk, often used inside a mesh bag called a "chalk ball." Using a chalk ball makes it easier to adjust the amount applied and limits the amount of chalk dust that scatters, making it suitable for indoor climbing gyms.

In bouldering, where it is common to use bucket-style chalk bags, some people use powder directly in the bag without a chalk ball. This allows for an even application over the entire palm, but because the chalk is prone to scattering, some climbing gyms prohibit this method.

【Product Examples】

【Black Diamond】White Gold Chalk Ball

【Tokyo Powder】Pure

【GRASP】Regular Type

・Block Type
This comes in a solid form like a bar of soap. By crushing it as you apply it, you can get the chalk thoroughly into the creases of your fingers. It is also useful for making "tick marks" (marks used to identify holds) outdoors. It does not scatter much when applied and absorbs less moisture, offering a consistent feel throughout the year.

・Chunky Type
A mix of powder and moderately crushed block chalk. You can apply the powder or crush the chunks with your fingertips. Since it comes in a moderately broken-down solid form, it is recommended for those who want to ensure the chalk is well-integrated into their fingers and palms.

【Product Examples】

【GRASP】WET Condition Chunky

【Tokyo Powder】Super Black

How to choose climbing chalk

・Choose based on skin type and sweating

Those who sweat easily ("sweaty hands") should choose liquid chalk or powder chalk designed for sweaty hands. Those who do not sweat much ("dry hands") should choose chunky types or a finer, softer powder chalk.

・Choose based on the climbing environment

In indoor settings like gyms, alcohol-based liquid types have become increasingly common. When using powder types, be sure to use a chalk ball or similar method to prevent the chalk from scattering.

When enjoying bouldering at outdoor crags, powder or chunky types are recommended, as they allow you to adjust the amount based on the condition of the rock and the weather.

We hope you now understand more about chalk. There are many different types, and your personal compatibility can change depending on how much you sweat, the temperature, and the humidity. Some chalks even pair better with certain holds; it is not uncommon to hear stories of climbers finally sending a project they couldn't finish simply by switching their chalk. Please try out different types and find the one that fits you best!