Demo Shoe Review 2026

May 26, 2026 NakazatoKouichi

Hello☆

In 2026, we held major, major, MAJOR climbing shoe try-on events at each of our stores.

This year, we featured a lineup of 21 different shoe models, including LV versions, from 5 manufacturers: SCARPA / BOREAL / UNPARALLEL / MAD ROCK / SoiLL!

With that said, I’d like to share our staff's feedback after actually testing the shoes.

Climbing shoes are based on a "last" (the base shape of the foot), so even with the same shoe and size, the feel will change depending on the shape of the wearer's foot.

Therefore, please take this review as strictly personal opinion and use it as a reference when choosing your own shoes!

If you would like to see recommended shoes by usage first, click here

■ Demo Shoe Reviewer

Nakazato

Foot size 25.5cm / Greek-type foot (second toe is the longest)

■ Current Favorite Shoes

SCARPA: Instinct VSR EU40.5 / Veloce WMN EU40
La Sportiva: Miura EU38, 38.5 / Miura XX EU38 / Solution Reboot EU39
EVOLV: Agro US9
Former FIVE TEN: Dragon US9
SoiLL: Free Range Pro US8
UNPARALLEL: UP-FLOAT US7.5
MAD ROCK: Drone 2.0 LV US8 / Shark III US8
TENAYA: INDALO UK5.5

【SoiLL】

① STEP

Size used: US9

Edging ★★☆
Smearing ★☆
Powering ★★
Toe ★☆
Heel ★
Total: 34 points

The only demo size for the STEP was a US9, which was one size larger than my ideal fit.

As an entry-level model, it prioritizes durability and comfort, so performance is just "okay" (typical for entry-level models).

Two points worth noting:

It features toe rubber, which is often omitted in entry models, so toe hooks are somewhat manageable.
The Zero Closure (Z-shaped velcro) provides an excellent fit. It keeps the forefoot well-secured, allowing you to apply power to the toes effectively.

I recommend this as a first shoe for beginners with narrow feet and Egyptian-type foot shapes (where the big toe is the longest).

②STAY RV / STAY LV

Size used: STAY US8.5

Edging ★★★☆
Smearing ★★★★
Powering ★★★
Toe ★★★
Heel ★★★☆
Total: 68 points

These are the soft shoes that have become mainstream recently. I've been curious about them since they were released, and I was finally able to try them!

They have a very balanced construction—a "do-it-all" type for just one pair.

The toe-hook performance wasn't quite as good as I expected (perhaps the toe rubber is modest to keep the shoe soft?), but the heel performance, which is usually the weak point of soft shoes, was better than expected.

With a comfortable, unpretentious fit, they seem like they would match many people. If you're in doubt, start by trying these!

③ Torque RV

Size used: US8

Edging ★★★★
Smearing ★★★☆
Powering ★★★☆
Toe ★★★★
Heel ★★★★☆
Total: 78 points

If the STAY is a soft shoe geared toward indoor climbing, this one is a bit stiffer and can also be used on outdoor rock.

Compared to the STAY, it has a more rigid feel overall. While smearing performance was sacrificed, edging and hooking performance have improved. Surprisingly, the toe hook also felt better on this model.

The sole uses Vibram XS Grip, but I feel like Vibram XS Grip 2 might suit me better, so I’d like to try swapping the rubber during a resole if I use these.

④ Torque AV1

Size used: US8, US7.5

Edging ★★★★
Smearing ★★★☆
Powering ★★★☆
Toe ★★★★
Heel ★★★★☆
Total: 78 points

This is a model based on the Torque RV but adjusted for Japanese foot shapes, so other than the feel of the fit, it’s mostly the same. Compared to the Torque RV, the Torque AV1 has slightly higher toe rigidity, making it a bit stiffer. Because of that, it felt a little harder to smear and stronger for edging, though the difference is so small it might not even change the star rating.

The Torque AV1 is wider and has a higher instep, so I think you can just choose between the Torque RV and AV1 based on your foot shape (or the design). Personally, the Torque RV felt like a better fit for me.

【UNPARALLEL】

⑤ Flagship Pro / Flagship Pro LV

Size used: Flagship Pro US8.5

Edging ★★★★
Smearing ★★★★☆
Powering ★★★★
Toe ★★★★☆
Heel ★★★★☆
Total: 86 points

As the primary shoe of Tomoa Narasaki, a leading Japanese climber, the performance is remarkably good!

It’s truly impressive how it achieves the contradictory capabilities of smearing and edging at a high level.

High-end shoes often have an idiosyncratic fit, but the Flagship feels natural, and its fit is among the top-class in this demo lineup.

The only downside is that the last doesn't quite match my foot shape. I have extra space in the heel cup, yet it still delivers amazing heel performance. For those whose feet match the last, this should be a reliable partner!

⑥ Flagship / Flagship LV

Size used: Flagship US8.5

Edging ★★★☆
Smearing ★★★★
Powering ★★★☆
Toe ★★★☆
Heel ★★★★
Total: 74 points

Perhaps because I wore them after the Flagship Pro, or because the demo pair had been heavily worn, I had the impression, "Was it like this before?" compared to my previous test.

Honestly, it pales in comparison to the Flagship Pro, but it was hailed as a next-generation high-end model at the time of its release, so the performance balance is good, and it’s a highly refined soft shoe.

Maybe to enhance edging, it feels like it has a 3D turn-in, so the fit can be a bit tricky.

The heel cup fits better than on the Flagship Pro, so some people might find this one more comfortable.

⑦ Vim

Size used: US8.5

Edging ★★★★
Smearing ★★★★
Powering ★★★★☆
Toe ★★★★
Heel ★★★★
Total: 82 points

The dark horse of this event. It’s actually a long-selling model, and I was reminded why there's a reason it’s loved for so long.

Performance was better than expected, and combined with the excellent fit of a slipper type and the ease of taking them on and off, it left a very good impression.

It’s widely known that a disadvantage of slippers is that they can easily slip off during heel moves. But actually, if you have solid technique, they won't slip off during heel hooks!

The affordable pricing is also a plus.

【BOREAL】

⑧ Indo

Size used: UK6.5

Edging ★★★☆
Smearing ★★★☆
Powering ★★★☆
Toe ★★★
Heel ★★★★
Total: 70 points

The Indo was overwhelmingly popular with beginners and intermediates at this try-on event.

I suspect the reason for its popularity is that even though it’s positioned as a soft shoe, it still has moderate rigidity.

If a soft shoe is too soft, your body weight is applied directly to your fingertips, so unless you have a certain amount of finger strength, you might not be able to handle the moves or you might experience pain. I think the Indo has just the right amount of rigidity to cover that.

The performance balance is good, and I especially liked the heel. It’s rare to find a shoe where the heel feels just right, so that alone makes it a valuable pair.

⑨ Mutant 3.0 / Mutant 3.0 LV

Size used: Mutant 3.0 UK6.5

Edging ★★★★
Smearing ★★★☆
Powering ★★★
Toe ★★★★
Heel ★★★★☆
Total: 76 points

These are slightly stiffer than the Indo, and as a result, the edging performance is GOOD.

The wide coverage of the toe rubber is also a big plus for me as I frequently use toe hooks.

The toe is quite rigid because of that, so I felt I wanted a bit more freedom, but that should resolve as they break in (they were surprisingly clean for demo shoes!).

In terms of performance, they are essentially an upgraded version of the Indo, so I’m not sure why the Indo is more popular.

They seem more suited to people with wide feet and high insteps, but they have a good fit and high comfort, so please try them out!

【MAD ROCK】

⑩ Remora Pro

Size used: US8.5

Edging ★★★☆
Smearing ★★★★★
Powering ★★★★
Toe ★★★☆
Heel ★★★★☆
Total: 82 points

The Remora Pro has been very popular since its release this year. The performance is well-justified.

Above all, the friction is excellent. The sense of security when smearing on a large volume is outstanding.

Despite this, the heel cup has rigidity, and combined with MAD ROCK’s unique heel shape, it provides a sense of reliability you wouldn't expect from a soft shoe.

The price is also modest, making it a great value, but since the toe rubber and sole are integrated, resoling might be difficult. I recommend buying these with the intention of replacing them.

Performance-wise, they are a must-buy, but they have a strong turn-in, and unfortunately, the last doesn’t match my foot shape.

What a pity.

⑪ D2.ONE

Size used: US8.5

Edging ★★★★
Smearing ★★★★
Powering ★★★☆
Toe ★★★★
Heel ★★★★
Total: 78 points

This is the latest in the Drone series. While the previous model, the "Drone 2.0," was a high-rigidity shoe that went against the trends, this one has returned much softer.

The fit and comfort have improved, and because they are softer, the range of routes you can tackle seems to have greatly expanded.

While retaining the "MAD ROCK feel," they are positioned to be easy for many people to use.

If you’re trying MAD ROCK for the first time, you should definitely START with this shoe!

⑫ Shark III

Size used: US8

Edging ★★★★
Smearing ★★★★☆
Powering ★★★★
Toe ★★★☆
Heel ★★★★☆
Total: 82 points

The Shark III is my go-to shoe for outdoor rock. Among MAD ROCK shoes, which are famous for their "ponytail" heel, this model has a distinct heel shape that was the deciding factor for my purchase!

The fit and ease of entry are the best among the MAD ROCK demo shoes here, and the performance balance is also excellent.

They are wide shoes, but it’s innovative that there is Velcro under the toe rubber to adjust the fit.

The sole is on the stiffer side, but the body is soft, so the shoe has a lot of freedom! Sometimes on outdoor rock, I wish for a bit more overall rigidity, though...

⑬ Drone 2.0 HV

Size used: US8

Edging ★★★★☆
Smearing ★★★★
Powering ★★★★
Toe ★★★★☆
Heel ★★★★
Total: 84 points

This is also a pair I use regularly (the LV model). As mentioned, it’s a high-rigidity shoe and is very stiff. You might find the demo pair stiff, but new ones are even stiffer! It takes time to break in, so be aware of that.

Some might think such stiffness wouldn't work for modern climbing, but thanks to the MAD ROCK original sole, which is famous for high friction, it handles smearing perfectly, and is surprisingly adaptable to various routes.

It’s a mystery why the toe hooks work so well despite being this stiff.

It’s hard to call them a versatile "do-it-all" shoe, but since I’m the type who uses multiple shoes for different purposes, I appreciate this specialized performance. That kind of shoe.

⑭ Drone CS HV

Size used: US9

Edging ★★★★
Smearing ★★★★☆
Powering ★★★★
Toe ★★★★☆
Heel ★★★★
Total: 84 points

When I tried them in a previous event, they didn't seem to fit well, but perhaps because the demo shoe was well broken-in, I felt more freedom than I did last time.

They were developed as a competition shoe, so the performance is impeccable.

The internal structure (fit) feels like nothing else (it seems the midsole is molded in 3D, naturally prompting the toes to "claw"), so I felt that choosing the right size is even more crucial to getting the full benefit of that performance.

The sole friction is just great, and it achieves a balance between edging and smearing performance with a different approach than UNPARALLEL.

⑮ Redline Strap

Size used: US8.5

Edging ★★★
Smearing ★★★★
Powering ★★★☆
Toe ★★★★
Heel ★★★☆
Total: 74 points

The mildest shoe among the MAD ROCK lineup.

Since the balance of fit, comfort, and performance is all good, this is a pair I can recommend to beginners and intermediate climbers.

One point that concerned me was that when walking around while wearing the shoes, the "ponytail" heel part poked the sole of my foot, causing discomfort.

If you keep them on and walk around for a long time, it might lead to strange walking habits, so junior climbers who tend to leave them on once they put them on might need to be careful.

There’s no standout, extreme performance (though the toe hook performance is good!), but this very balance makes it a suitable shoe for mastering the fundamental techniques of climbing.

First, wear these out and become stronger through balance!

【SCARPA】

⑯ Instinct VSR / Instinct VSR LV

Size used: Instinct VSR EU40

Edging ★★★★☆
Smearing ★★★★
Powering ★★★★
Toe ★★★★★
Heel ★★★★
Total: 86 points

My favorite shoe that I've been using for over 10 years! The performance balance is convincing, and the toe-hook performance is especially second to none.

For my own pair, I customize them by adding wider toe rubber to further increase toe-hook performance.

It’s been a long-selling SCARPA model, but this year, an LV version was newly released!

In the LV model, the heel shape has been made slimmer, and the toe rubber shape and sewing method have been revised to improve toe-hook performance.

You can tell how good the performance is by the number of users it’s acquired right after its release!

But unfortunately, the LV model's last doesn't fit my foot... I’ll keep doing my best with the VSR as usual!

⑰ Drago XT

Size used: EU41

Edging ★★★★
Smearing ★★★★☆
Powering ★★★★☆
Toe ★★★☆
Heel ★★★★☆
Total: 84 points

This is also the latest model from SCARPA's Drago series.

With its characteristic dual velcro, the forefoot fit is improved. Even when putting weight on small holds, power is less likely to be dispersed.

On the other hand, the velcro gets in the way, so the toe-hook performance is somewhat mediocre. The angle of the velcro is designed so as not to be an obstacle, and the rubber friction is good, but there are still situations where you can't manage deep toe hooks.

The concept emphasizes toe performance, so you’ll just have to accept that trade-off.

Also, the heel shape is distinct—it’s a type that works by pressing with a surface, so it takes some getting used to.

It’s a specialized model for advanced climbers, but if you master it, it becomes a powerful weapon!

You won't know until you try them, so please take this opportunity to give them a go♪

That’s all. Sorry for the long-windedness. Thank you to everyone who read this far.