Choosing Climbing Shoes

Choosing Climbing Shoes

 

Climbing is an accessible sport that you can start with just two pieces of gear: climbing shoes and chalk. Looked at another way, this means that choosing the right climbing shoes is incredibly important. In other words, it is no exaggeration to say that whoever masters the art of choosing climbing shoes, masters climbing itself!

Please use the following points to help you find the best climbing shoes for you.

Point 1: Size: The best size is "tight, but not painful"!

It is standard to wear climbing shoes in a smaller size that causes your toes to curl; this curling allows you to put more power into your toe tips. However, if they are too small, they will cause intense pain, and if they are too large, gaps will form between your feet and the shoes, making it difficult to apply power and negatively affecting your performance. We recommend that you always try them on before purchasing to find the size that fits you best.

When buying your first pair of climbing shoes, don't force yourself to choose a size that is too small; choosing a slightly larger size that doesn't cause excessive pain will help you enjoy climbing right from the start! (As a size guide for beginners, we recommend a size where you can stand on your tiptoes and move your feet comfortably while wearing the shoes.)

Point 2: Fit: Choose shoes that match the shape of your feet!

Foot shapes vary by individual—some have a longer big toe, others have a longer second toe. Choosing shoes that match your foot shape will result in less pain, a better fit, and improved performance.

There are three basic foot shapes: Egyptian, Greek, and Square.

[Egyptian]

This shape has the longest big toe, with the others tapering down toward the little toe. Most shoes are built based on the Egyptian foot shape.

[Greek]

This shape has the longest second toe, followed by the big toe and middle toe, tapering toward the little toe. This is the most common foot shape among Japanese people, and shoes with a "turn-in" (where the tip curves toward the big toe) are prone to causing pain.

[Square]

In this shape, the toes are roughly the same length. Shoes with pointed toes are prone to causing pain, so we recommend choosing shoes with a wider toe box.

 

 

Point 3: Fastening Type: There are four types: slipper, lace-up, velcro, and velcro-slipper hybrid.

[Slipper Type]

*Shoe pictured: "SCARPA / Instinct S"

 

Pros: Because they have fewer components, they are lightweight and conform well to the foot. Also, because there are no parts on the instep, it is easier to perform toe hooks. They take a little practice to put on, but once you get used to them, they are easy to slip on and off, making them convenient for gym climbing where you take your shoes off frequently.

Cons: They stretch over time, making sizing difficult. Lace-up and velcro types allow for some adjustment even after they stretch out, but slipper types do not. Another weakness is that they can slip off easily when doing heel hooks.

[Lace-up Type]

 

Pros: You can tighten or loosen the laces to your preference, making them easy to fit to your foot, which is useful in situations that require precise footwork.

Cons: You have to adjust the laces every time you take them on or off, which can be a hassle. There is also a possibility that the laces could come untied during use. Furthermore, the laces can sometimes get in the way when trying to do a toe hook.

[Velcro Type]

Shoe pictured: "Evolv / Kronos"

Pros: These combine the adjustability of lace-up shoes with the ease of use of slipper types. They are a midpoint between the two and are highly recommended for beginners. Also, since the entire instep is often covered in rubber, they facilitate climbing that uses the whole foot, including the toes and sides.

Cons: Velcro usually only tightens in two or three spots, so depending on your foot shape, you might not be able to tighten them exactly where you want. Also, the velcro can sometimes get in the way when performing a toe hook.

[Velcro-Slipper Hybrid Type]

Shoe pictured: "SCARPA / Instinct VSR"

Pros: This type combines the advantages of both slipper and velcro styles; in fact, most high-end models today are of this type. While they feature the slipper-style shape that fits the entire foot, the addition of velcro across the instep ensures they stay securely on your foot during heel hooks.


Cons: While they offer better overall fit than pure slipper or velcro types, they fall short of the precision of lace-up models. Many have a down-turned sole, which can be a disadvantage for certain types of toe hooks.

Point 4: Sole Shape: These are mainly divided into two types: flat soles and down-turned soles.

[Flat Sole] Climbing shoes with a flat sole

*Shoe pictured: "Black Diamond / Momentum Men's"

These are standard, versatile, and have no unusual features, making them highly recommended for beginners.

They provide a large contact area on less steep walls (slabs), making them less prone to slipping.

[Down-Turned] Arch-shaped climbing shoes with the toe bent downward

Shoe pictured: "SCARPA / Drago LV"

Because the toe is bent downward, they are effective at "hooking" holds on steep walls and keeping your feet planted. They also often have more rubber on the instep, making toe hooks easier, and their shape makes heel hooks easier as well. However, on vertical walls or slabs, the contact area is reduced, making them more prone to slipping. Also, because the toe is curved, they don't feel as natural to put on as flat shoes, and some people may find them painful depending on their foot shape.

 

Point 5: Toe Shape: There are two types: straight and turn-in.

[Straight] Climbing shoes with a straight toe section

Shoe pictured: "SCARPA / Veloce"

These are compatible with various climbing styles and have a shape close to everyday footwear, making them comfortable and recommended for beginners.

[Turn-In] Climbing shoes where the toe is curved toward the big toe

Shoe pictured: "SCARPA / Drago"

These make it easier to concentrate force on the big toe, allowing you to stand on smaller holds. They also make inside-edge footwork easier. However, because the shape differs from everyday shoes, they can be less comfortable, and using the outside edge (the little toe side) is more difficult.

Point 6: Sole Hardness: This varies depending on the rubber used, falling into two categories: hard and soft.

[Hard Sole]

Hard soles do not deform easily and support your body weight well, making it easier to stand on small holds. Harder soles are better for climbing slabs and vertical walls as they provide more support for your weight.

However, for those with lighter body weight or when climbing steep overhangs, you may not be able to press into the footholds effectively, which can cause slipping. It also makes it harder to feel the sensitivity in your feet required to know if you are properly on the hold.

[Soft Sole]

Soft soles allow the rubber to deform, making it easier to step on volumes or curved holds. When climbing steep overhangs, softer soles make it easier to keep your feet planted. They also provide better sensitivity, allowing you to gauge how much weight you are putting on the holds and their exact position.

However, if you are heavier or need to press down firmly on slabs or vertical walls, the sole may deform too much, causing your feet to slip.

As you can see, there are six points to consider when choosing climbing shoes.

With so many factors—① size, ② fit, ③ fastening style, ④ toe shape, ⑤ sole shape, and ⑥ sole hardness—it can be tough to find the right shoes for you.

When in doubt, we recommend asking the staff at your gym for advice. Find the perfect pair of climbing shoes, and enjoy your climbing!